Research on the Interdependence of Structure and Comfort Characteristics of Textiles for Traditional Shirts

Abstract

European cultural strategies focused on unity through diversity, valuing multiculturalism andintangible and material cultural heritage involve a greater focus on the traditional costume. The aspirationof Romania and the Republic of Moldova to include the traditional shirt with altita (element of the upper partof the sleeve) in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is anotherargument that determined the necessity of this study. Just as the traditional costume is a subject of transnationalinterest, several communities have been initiated and preoccupied with the revitalization of the traditionalcostume both in Romania and the Republic of Moldova. The objective of revitalization and voluntaryreintegration of the pieces of the tr aditional costume in the circuit of the current clothing products as anelement of national identity entails several necessary t opics to be solved. One of these is related to theidentification of the textiles from which one of the important pieces of the suit-shirt is to be made. It must beas faithful as possible from the aspect of aesthetic characteristics, but also the functional, and technologicalones. Because the traditional shirt presents a secular codified history with symbolic connotations of greatidentity importance, everything that determines it is chosen with great care. To ensure the irreproachablefidelity of the traditional shirts made today with the hi storical ones, the creators strive to choose for themhomemade cloth obtained by hand through the same traditional technologies, aspiring to ensure the samecharacteristics of the products. The structural characteristics of the handmade fabrics influence the aestheticsof the integral product, especially the quality of the aesthetics of the reproduction of the symbolic ornamentalelements that form the structural-compositional ensemble of the reproduced history. At the same time, theydetermine the comfort characteristics of textiles. The work presents the results of the study of theinterdependence of the characteristics of structure and comfort as being in direct dependence. The study wasdone within the State Project 20.80009.0807.17. “Education for the revitalization of the national culturalheritage through traditional processing technologies used in the Republic of Moldova in the context ofmulticulturalism, diversity and European integration”, running at the Technical University of Moldova.